Cocoon

A quick chat with local designer Liz Dawes behind the label Cocoon and her Fremantle store. 

 

When did you first start your own label?

About 6 years ago now

What did you do prior to Cocoon and how did it all start?

I did a fine arts degree in Sydney and did a few textile classes at Central Tafe but otherwise not a lot to do with fashion, as I was a chef in my own café in Sydney for many years. I started out with printing home wares and had a small market at the Arts Centre Bazaar. The label Hustle asked me to join them and produce my home wares and expand my range into clothing in their shop and from there people slowly dropped away, Hustle could no longer afford to continue with their business and I took Hustle over as my own label Cocoon.

Did you find the study that you did worthwhile?

I really just went for the printing facilities, I learnt the most from actually owning my own café and learning all about the business side because I don’t think you will ever really understand that or know what you’re doing until you’ve done it yourself. Running your own business is a whole other world that you certainly don’t get taught at Uni or Tafe.

I know you do a lot of your own fabrics, have you employed other sewers or pattern makers?

I have a few sewers but otherwise I do it all myself. I make up my own patterns, print and dye my own fabric, cut out the patterns and then send them to my sewers to be made up for samples. The business isn’t big enough to be able to hire a million other people to do it for me.

Do you source your fabric locally or internationally?

I would love to say that I travel a lot, but no I get my fabric from anywhere and everywhere in Perth. A few companies from over east that obviously get their fabric internationally but I just take whatever I can find at the cheapest price I can find!

You’ve got a few other labels in your store, are they all WA based or Australian and international?

I only stock local labels, you have to have that point of difference from other stores and mine is keeping it really local. I only stock 2 other labels beside Cocoon (both from Melbourne) and they are both basics as my stuff is already graphic and loud enough.

What do you find most challenging?

Definitely just owning your own store. There’s a whole lot more to organize beside just your label, there’s bills, rent, shop fittings, advertising etc. I’m lucky I had my own shop before so I knew what I was doing. I don’t advertise through Facebook or any online media either, so advertising and building up a strong customer market is difficult too.

Any advice for someone wanting to start their own label or business?

Do a marketing course before starting, there’s so much more to know. And work in the industry first to really hone in on a certain skill and get as much knowledge as you can from working.

Illustrations

Our latest assignment in class was to produce a streetwear illustration and a showstopper illustration of a current trend we have been researching. I chose the peplum which is a major trend at the moment. These are my two designs I created on illustrator.

Trade drawings of the two garments.

Spotted on the streets

Miroslava Duma

So my latest obsession is Miroslava Duma. She was the editor for Harpers Bazaar Russia and now writes for numerous publications such as OK Magazine. She has quickly become one of the most snapped and sought after starlets for her amazing street style fashion. When she steps out dressed to impressed it is no wonder everyone wants a snap, she's amazing!

Cultural signposts in fashion

The Influence of Art in Fashion

 Pop art and op art were one of the first art trends to appear on clothing designs. They were popular art movements in the 1960’s, and while they were separate movements the public mixed them. Op art was first publicized by Time magazine resulting in fashion designers picking up these trends and modifying them for use in their clothing ranges. Chain stores advertised black and white themed clothing and bold pop art prints through television commercials, magazine advertisements and window displays in large department stores.

Street art is another major art form that has progressed into the fashion industry. Banksy is one of the most well-known street artists around the world. From gluing prints onto walls, billboards and streets all over the world, to then having a feature film produced about him, street art has become very recognized by the public. While Banksy now has his own clothing line with his designs featured onto t-shirts, hoodies and other street apparel, other designers are too jumping on the street art wagon and it is forever evolving. Street art is also featured in magazines and found in advertising events such as skating competitions and music events.

Mary Katrantzou is an influential designer in the fashion industry today. Her designs feature bold paintings, illustrations and graphic designs which are then printed onto fabrics and collaged together to create contrasting art. Her collections are featured on runways, in magazines and on blogs. She also did a ten piece collection for Topshop, which is having a major influence on street fashion.

Our very own fashion dolls !

Phoebes (left), Mine (right)

Street style

 

My own illustration of a hand coloured costume plate

Eco garment

Creating our own eco garment:

Using op-shop finds and old garments we had a pressure test in class to re-create our own wearable garment. Shannen and I started with a blue sleeved shirt, a pleated flowery skirt and a sheer maxi skirt with navy lining. Here's what we did with our daggy old garments to make them into something new, wearable and eco friendly!

We cut the sleeves and collar off the shirt and tucked the back up to the collar stand and sewed it down to create a back drape. To allow the sides to drape down we opened the front up and sewed two cute bottons on the front.

 We cut the skirt into panels and sewed them into the front v of the shirt. We then sewed the panels together so it had a beautiful centre drape. We did the same at the back with plain navy panels.

 

Not only did our dress turn out to be wearable, suitable for many sizes and nice and comfortable, it was also very versatile. There were numerous ways to wear the skirt to create different looks.

 The sides tied up

 The front buttoned up around the back

The front buttoned up at the top of the shirt opening.

Or just all draping down :)

A fun project that only took a couple of hours. The possibilities of changing a boring old wardrobe into something new are endless.